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crossing the Pyrenees

Just before Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port the roads from Paris, Vézelay and Le Puy-en-Velay come together. (The road from Arles only connects to the other roads in Puente la Reina (Spain)). From that point, it is approximately 800 kilometres to Santiago de Compostela.

Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port has been an important stop before the crossing of the Pyrenees for centuries. "Pied-de-Port” means: “at the foot of the pass”. This region itself is called the Cize (in Basque: Garazi). In the Codex Calixtinus (twelfth century A.D.) the crossing of the Pyrenees is described as follows:

1. "There, in that Basque Country, the road of Saint-Jacques joins onto a very high mountain, called the “passage of Cize” (…). Its immense height makes them who mount it think that they touch the canopy of heaven (…). Near this mountain, to the north, is a valley called “Valcarlos”. Pilgrims that go through this valley (…) do not have to climb the mountain."
   

So from Saint-Jean (at 146 metres) there are two routes across the Pyrenees to Roncesvalles (952 metres):

1. •the high-route, the “route Napoleon" or "route traditionel" (GR 65). Highest point: the Col de Lepoeder, at 1410 metres,
   

2. •the route through “The valley of Charlemagne” via Valcarlos. Highest point: the Puerto de Ibañeta, at 1057 metres. 
   

For walkers the "route Napoleon" is the common route. Almost all cyclists go via Valcarlos.

For the walkers who go through Valcarlos a route has been set out that avoids the D933 as much as possible.

Shortly after you have left the walled part of Saint-Jean through the Porte d'Espagne, the routes are separated. This is clearly signposted along the road (> alongside).

Please prepare well for this stage and realize that you will walk across mountains. The weather can change very fast, and when there is fog or mist you should be extra careful. During spring and autumn, snow, cold, mud and gales can make the crossing a risky journey (possibility of hypothermia). Therefore the following recommendations:

1. •take it easy and ask yourself, especially if you start from Saint-Jean, if you are ready for your journey and for crossing the mountains. Realize that many pilgrims become injured within a few days, because they go too fast (Some of them even have to cancel their journey already in Pamplona!). Therefore, it is important to give yourself enough time to find your rhythm. Decide if you want to start immediately or acclimatize first, example by staying in Saint-Jean for a day or by crossing the mountains in two days.
   

2. (If you have a reasonable to good condition and are well-rested, the crossing to Roncesvalles can fairly easily be accomplished in one day (with an average of 8 hours, without the breaks). Most bikers cycle to Pamplona in one day).
   

3. •choose your route after you made inquiries of the weather conditions at the pilgrim’s office, across our hostel. If you are advised against taking the high route, please take this advice. In bad weather, the marking is more difficult to see and, too often, accidents occur. 
   

4. •if you decide to spend the night and follow the high route, you have three options: Ferme Ithurburia (Hounto), after circa 1,5 hours of walking, Refuge auberge Orisson after approx. 2,5 hours of walking, and the Gîte Kayola (possibility to cook yourself) -by the same owner- 1 km before Orisson. Make your reservations well in advance. After Orisson there are only two, very simple, shelters and one source (the "fontaine de Roland"), and nothing else! (please note: when it has been hot for a long period of time, this source may have run dry).
   

5. •shortly after the highest point on the high route (in good weather there you will be able to see Roncesvalles for the first time), you can choose between a sharp descent through the forest, or a longer descent through the Puerto de Ibañeta. We strongly advise you to choose the longer descent. (The fork is marked > alongside),
   

6. •if you decide to follow the lower route and spend the night, you should do so in Valcarlos, the first village after the French-Spanish border. In Valcarlos are several places to spend the night, even an "albergue de peregrinos". After Valcarlos there are only a few houses, nothing else!
   

After all the warnings, we only have one advice left: enjoy your trip, it is a beautiful stage!

When you arrive in Roncesvalles you can spend the night next to the convent which was founded in 1132 to give shelter to pilgrims. The mountain stage was much heavier in those days. Amongst others because of the wolves wandering around in this area. There have been times that the convent gave meals to 25,000 pilgrims annually. Nowadays, you can choose between two restaurants.

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